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Temples of Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya

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Ayutthaya was the capital of Siam for four hundred and seventeen years and was destroyed in a single campaign in 1767. Almost everything a visitor sees here is therefore a ruin, and almost every date attached to a ruin comes from a chronicle written down afterwards. The Ayutthaya chronicles survive in several recensions that disagree with one another, and the Thai state bodies that summarise them rarely say which one they are following — the Tourism Authority's own page for Wat Mahathat begins by saying that some chronicle recensions hold this, which is the honest shape of nearly every founding claim in this province.

So these pages keep two columns apart. On one side, what a register, a gazette entry, an excavation report or a dated administrative act shows. On the other, what the chronicles and the temples' own telling hold, said in those words. Where a year is not established, the page says so. That is not a gap in the research; on this ground it is usually the finding.

One further caution, particular to Ayutthaya. The Historic City of Ayutthaya was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1991 under criterion (iii), an inscribed property of 289 hectares which both ONEP and the Fine Arts Department describe as lying on the island. ONEP names eight monuments inside it. Four of the six temples below are among them and carry the badge. Two — Wat Chaiwatthanaram on the west bank and Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon to the southeast — are not on the island and are named by nobody, so their World Heritage field is empty rather than assumed. A UNESCO badge on a temple nobody has placed inside the boundary is exactly the kind of confident claim this guide exists to avoid.

Practically: five of these six are unroofed and there is no shade to speak of on the island, the Fine Arts Department's park sells tickets from the morning until late afternoon, and Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon is a working monastery with monks in residence rather than a monument. Dress for the last of those and the rest looks after itself.

On the map

Temples in Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya

2 of 6 temples in Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya are plotted. The others have no confirmed coordinate yet, so they are not shown as pins.

The temples

6 temples covered in Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya

Wat Mahathat — the relic temple and the head in the rootsวัดมหาธาตุ · Phra Nakhon Si AyutthayaThe relic temple at the heart of the old capital: a collapsed prang that once held a nested gold reliquary, and a sandstone Buddha head that the roots of a bodhi tree have closed around.Royal class not established · Carried in the national monument register; gazette announcement unreadWat Ratchaburana — the crypt, the murals and the goldวัดราชบูรณะ · Phra Nakhon Si AyutthayaThe temple Chao Sam Phraya raised over his brothers' cremation ground — and the crypt beneath its prang, which gave up the largest gold hoard ever found in Thailand and built a national museum with the proceeds.Royal class not established · Carried in the national monument register; gazette announcement unreadWat Phra Si Sanphet — the palace chapel and the three chedisวัดพระศรีสรรเพชญ์ · Phra Nakhon Si AyutthayaThe chapel royal of the Ayutthaya kings, inside the palace walls and never a monastery: three Ceylonese bell chedis over the ashes of three kings, and the empty hall where a sixteen-metre gilded Buddha once stood.Royal class not established · Carried in the national monument register; gazette announcement unreadWat Chaiwatthanaram — Prasat Thong's Meru on the riverวัดไชยวัฒนาราม · Phra Nakhon Si AyutthayaThe most complete surviving temple of the late Ayutthaya period: a central prang ringed by eight prang-topped meru on the west bank of the Chao Phraya, restored twice in living memory and flooded once.Royal class not established · Carried in the national monument register; gazette announcement unreadWat Lokayasutharam — the reclining Buddha under the open skyวัดโลกยสุธาราม · Phra Nakhon Si AyutthayaA ruin on the west of the island holding the largest reclining Buddha in the old city — forty-two metres of brick and stucco lying in the open, ringed by the columns of a hall that has gone.Royal class not established · Carried in the national monument register; gazette announcement unreadWat Yai Chai Mongkhon — the victory chedi and the working monasteryวัดใหญ่ชัยมงคล · Phra Nakhon Si AyutthayaThe one temple in this batch with monks in it: a third-class royal monastery southeast of the island, built around the chedi tradition says King Naresuan raised for a victory won on the back of an elephant.Third class royal temple, Worawihan · Carried in the national monument register; gazette announcement unread
How this guide works

Where these facts come from

Every page is built from the National Office of Buddhism and Department of Religious Affairs registers, the Fine Arts Department’s national monument register and its published monographs, the Royal Gazette where it could be read, UNESCO, and the temples’ own material — with the Tourism Authority of Thailand used only for visiting practicalities, never for history. Nothing here is taken from a travel blog, a listicle or a review site.

The rule that governs every page is that recorded tradition is not history. Thai temple histories are full of foundation legends, and they are worth telling — but told as tradition, in those words, never flattened into a bare founding date. Where a date is not established, the page says so, and that sentence is the useful part.

Still to come here: The queue named exactly these six for Ayutthaya and all six are built, so the province is complete as the queue defines it and the rotation advances to Sukhothai and Si Satchanalai. A second Ayutthaya run, if one is ever wanted, has obvious candidates: Wat Phra Ram and Wat Maheyong, which are the other two monuments on the park's own combined ticket; Wat Phutthaisawan and Wat Na Phra Men, which survived 1767 substantially intact; the Chedi Si Suriyothai; and Wat Thammikarat, which ONEP names inside the inscribed property and which this run did not reach.

Next

Before you go

Read the guide to Buddhism and temple etiquette in Thailand first — dress, footwear, photography and how to behave around monks. Then the Bangkok city guide and things to do in Bangkok for everything around them.

Staying longer? Work out which Thai visa route fits your situation, read where to live in Bangkok, and browse residences and rentals.