Bangkok · Thonburi

Wat Prayurawongsawat — the white chedi at the bridge

A Bunnag family temple on the Thonburi bank whose great white chedi gave up a sealed relic chamber in 2007 and won UNESCO's top Asia-Pacific conservation award in 2013.

วัดประยุรวงศาวาสวรวิหาร · Wat Prayurawongsawat Worawihan

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The record

What the official record says

Official nameวัดประยุรวงศาวาสวรวิหาร — Wat Prayurawongsawat Worawihan
WhereWat Kalayan, Thonburi, Bangkok
Royal temple classNot established from an official register.
Monastic orderNot recorded in any register we could read.
Ancient monumentCarried in the national monument register; gazette announcement unread
The temple is treated as a registered national ancient monument and the Fine Arts Department gazetted its monument land boundary — about nine rai and seventy-seven square wah — on 14 February 2024 under section 7 of the Ancient Monuments Act of 2504. Both that notice and the original registration reached us only through a newspaper's report of the department's text, and the Royal Gazette site refused our requests, so no volume, part or page is claimed here. The original registration is very probably the omnibus notice of 22 November 1949 that carries the other major Bangkok temples, but probably is not a citation and we do not print one.
Map

Where Wat Prayurawongsawat Worawihan is

Wat Kalayan, Thonburi, Bangkok

The exact location has not been confirmed yet.

Founding

When was it founded — and what actually establishes that?

Thai temple histories mix two different kinds of statement, and this guide keeps them apart. What a register, a gazette entry, an inscription or a dated royal act shows is one thing. What the chronicles and the temple itself hold is another, and it is worth telling as what it is.

What the record showsThe Designated Areas for Sustainable Tourism Administration, a Thai government body, records that in 2371 in the Buddhist era, 1828, Somdet Chao Phraya Borom Maha Prayurawong, Dit Bunnag, gave land that had been a coffee plantation, that building took eight years, and that the consecration was held on 13 January of the year it was completed, 2379. The Sirindhorn Anthropology Centre's database records that the great chedi was begun in the same year by the founder, left unfinished at his death, and completed in the fourth reign by his son Chao Phraya Si Suriyawong, Chuang Bunnag.
What tradition holdsRama III's personal involvement is usually attributed to him in accounts of the temple's founding. Nothing we could read establishes it beyond the fact that Dit Bunnag was the king's senior minister at the time, so it is said rather than shown, and this page does not repeat it as record.

The founder's own dates and the eight-year construction are government-sourced. What the sources do not give is any statement of a royal act of foundation, which is a different thing from a minister of the crown building a temple in the king's reign.

History

The history of Wat Prayurawongsawat Worawihan

Wat Prayurawongsawat was built by the most powerful non-royal family in nineteenth-century Siam on ground that had been growing coffee. The government tourism record is precise about the beginning: Dit Bunnag, Somdet Chao Phraya Borom Maha Prayurawong, gave the land in 2371 of the Buddhist era, 1828; the work took eight years; the consecration fell on 13 January 2379. The great bell-shaped chedi at the centre of the compound was begun at the same time, left unfinished when he died, and completed in the following reign by his son Chuang Bunnag, who would himself become regent.

The chedi is 60.525 metres tall, 162 metres round and 50 metres across the base by the Sirindhorn Anthropology Centre's figures, and its interior is unusual enough to be the reason for everything that followed. It has an accessible central core pillar, which the research centre and Mahachulalongkornrajavidyalaya University both describe as the only surviving example of the construction type in the country. By the 2000s that pillar — twenty metres of it, 144 tonnes — was leaning, damage traced back in part to bombing in the Second World War.

The restoration ran from 2006 to 2010, and in the middle of it, on 5 and 7 November 2550, 2007, the sealed chamber inside the chedi was opened. What came out of it was not a symbolic deposit but a hoard: the museum record describes roughly 270 ancient Buddha images from the first vault and thousands of votive tablets and amulets from a second. Engineers from King Mongkut's Institute of Technology Ladkrabang straightened the leaning pillar with a patented steel-wrap and hydraulic-jack method rather than dismantling it.

In 2013 the project took the Award of Excellence, the top tier of the UNESCO Asia-Pacific Awards for Cultural Heritage Conservation. UNESCO's own account of it praises a sophisticated understanding of a unique architectural typology from the early Rattanakosin era and the project's extensive social impact in the multicultural historic district of Kadeejeen — the Kudi Chin riverside quarter, where this temple, the Portuguese-descended Catholic community around Santa Cruz Church and a Muslim settlement have shared a riverbank since Taksin granted the land. The adjoining hall, built in 1885 as a study hall and serving from 1916 as what the museum record calls Thailand's first public library, was restored as part of the same work and reopened in 2008 as the museum where the chedi's contents are now shown.

On site

What you actually see

The Phra Borommathat Maha Chedi: 60.525 metres tall, 162 metres in circumference, 50 metres across the base, bell-shaped on a circular platform with alternating arched doorways and pilasters, Ayutthaya chedi form carrying early-Rattanakosin western detailing. You can go inside it, which is the rare part.

The relic chamber and its contents, now shown in the museum: roughly 270 Buddha images from the first vault and thousands of votive tablets from the second, opened on 5 and 7 November 2007 after the chedi had been sealed for well over a century.

Khao Mo, the artificial hill in the pond, with its miniature structures — a nineteenth-century Thai garden conceit built at a scale that reads as landscape rather than ornament. No source we accept gives its construction date.

The museum building itself, raised in 1885 as a monks' study hall, in use from 1916 as a public library, and reopened as the Prayoon Bhandagara museum in 2008 by Princess Sirindhorn. It is open daily from 9 in the morning to 9 at night with no admission charge, per the museum's own record.

Visiting

Visiting: hours, admission, dress and photography

This is a working place of worship for millions of people rather than an attraction, and it is treated as one at the gate. Where a figure below is blank, no source we are prepared to cite states it.

HoursNot established from an official source.
AdmissionNot established from an official source.
DressNot established from an official source.
PhotographyNo source we found states a rule, so we print none.
Getting therePrachathipok Road, Wat Kalayan subdistrict, Thonburi, at the Thonburi foot of the Memorial Bridge and a short walk from Santa Cruz Church and the Kudi Chin lanes. The address is from the Tourism Authority's and the government tourism body's listings.
Before you rely on the figures aboveThe museum in the restored library building is open daily from 09:00 to 21:00 with no admission charge, per the Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn Anthropology Centre's museum record. Those are the museum's hours and not necessarily the compound's, and we could not verify hours, admission, dress or photography for the temple itself from any source we accept.
Open

What we could not establish

Every temple reference repeats claims nobody has checked. These are the ones we went looking for and could not stand up, listed so you know exactly where this page stops.

FAQ

Wat Prayurawongsawat Worawihan: common questions

What was found inside the chedi at Wat Prayoon?

A sealed chamber, opened on 5 and 7 November 2550 in the Buddhist era, 2007, during the restoration that ran from 2006 to 2010. The museum record describes roughly 270 ancient Buddha images from the first vault and thousands of votive tablets and amulets from a second. They are now shown in the Prayoon Bhandagara museum in the restored study hall beside the chedi. Who deposited them, and when, is not something any source we could read establishes.

What UNESCO award did Wat Prayoon win?

The Award of Excellence — the top tier — in the 2013 UNESCO Asia-Pacific Awards for Cultural Heritage Conservation, for the restoration of the chedi and the adjoining hall. UNESCO's own account of the project cites a sophisticated understanding of a unique architectural typology from the early Rattanakosin era and the work's extensive social impact in the multicultural historic district of Kadeejeen. This is not World Heritage status, which is a different UNESCO programme; the temple is not on the World Heritage List or Thailand's tentative list.

How big is the white chedi and can you go inside it?

It is 60.525 metres tall, 162 metres in circumference and 50 metres across the base by the Sirindhorn Anthropology Centre's figures, and yes — the interior is accessible, which is the unusual thing about it. It has an accessible central core pillar that the research centre and Mahachulalongkornrajavidyalaya University both describe as the only surviving example of that construction type in Thailand. The pillar, twenty metres and 144 tonnes, was leaning and was straightened during the restoration rather than replaced.

What is Kudi Chin and how does the temple fit into it?

It is the riverside quarter on the Thonburi bank where, per the government tourism body's account, Taksin granted land to Thai, Chinese and Portuguese-descended residents, and where a Buddhist, Catholic and Muslim population has lived alongside each other since. Santa Cruz Church has stood there since the Thonburi period. UNESCO's citation for the chedi restoration names the district explicitly, which is the clearest statement we found that the temple is understood as part of that mixed quarter rather than apart from it.

Nearby

Where to go from here

Before you go, read the guide to Buddhism and temple etiquette in Thailand — dress, footwear, where photography is not welcome and how to behave around monks. The rest of Bangkok’s temples are covered here too.

Every temple here sits in a place worth reading about on its own terms. The nationwide temple guide covers the other provinces to the same documentary standard as this page, and says on each one what the record establishes and what it does not.

If you are thinking about more than a visit: work out which Thai visa route fits your situation, and see what is available to rent and buy in residences across Thailand.

Sources & References

Sources & References

Every fact on this page is drawn from the sources above. Where they disagree, this page says so rather than choosing silently. Registrations, fees, hours and access change; confirm anything you are relying on with the authority concerned. BAANLYY LLC is a Nevada company and a listing portal, does not represent any temple, and offers no legal or religious advice.