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Temples of Narathiwat

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Narathiwat is a Muslim-majority province, and the Buddhist monasteries on the national register here are concentrated in one district for a reason that is historical rather than scenic. Until the Anglo-Siamese settlement of B.E. 2452 the lower Tak Bai river was the edge of Kelantan, and the monasteries along it were built by congregations who had to deal with a Malay ruler to get anything done. The register for Wat Pipphaliwan records exactly that: its abbots petitioned for the royal grant of an ordination boundary through the Raja of Kelantan, and received it from King Chulalongkorn in B.E. 2441.

The Fine Arts Department catalogues 53 sites in this province. Six of them carry the register strongest status — registered with a determined land boundary — and all six are monasteries in Amphoe Tak Bai. Those six are the pages below. Nine more sites are named in Royal Gazette lists without being registered, among them three mosques and the old gold mine at Sukhirin; thirteen more are carried as monuments with no boundary; twenty-five are still awaiting assessment. That shape is worth stating plainly rather than hiding: a province guide that printed only temples would be describing a minority of what is actually protected here.

The second thing that holds these six together is one man. Phra Winaithon, the monk Chui, painted the murals at Wat Chonthara Singhe, was invited to be the first abbot of Wat Khok Mafueang, carved the gilded Buddha that stands in its abbot house, and designed what the register calls the last ordination hall he drew, at Wat Tharakon. Half the monuments on this page are his work or were shaped by him, and the register says so in three separate entries.

On hours: not one of these six pages carries an opening time or an admission figure, because no official source consulted publishes one. The tourism authority page for the province best known monastery was rendered and read in full and gives an address, a description and a parking note with no times behind them. Travel sites print hours for it. None of them is cited here, and nothing has been invented to fill the gap.

On the map

Temples in Narathiwat

6 of 6 temples in Narathiwat are plotted.

Tap a pin, then Start from here, to measure walk and drive reach.
The temples

6 temples covered in Narathiwat

Wat Chonthara Singheวัดชลธาราสิงเห · Tak BaiA third-class royal monastery on the Tak Bai river whose ordination hall was put on the national register by itself in 1975, and whose grounds waited twenty-seven years to be registered with it.Third class royal temple, Saman · Registered national ancient monumentWat Tharakonวัดธารากร · Tak BaiA village monastery on the Tak Bai river whose ordination hall carries three different calendars over its doors, and is the last building its designer is known to have drawn.Royal class not established · Registered national ancient monumentWat Khok Mafueangวัดโคกมะเฟือง · Tak BaiThe monastery the painter of Wat Chonthara Singhe was invited to run, where his carved and gilded work survives in the abbot house rather than on a wall.Royal class not established · Registered national ancient monumentWat Khok Mamuangวัดโคกมะม่วง · Tak BaiA small monastery in the paddy inland from Tak Bai, registered for one thing: a wooden scripture library standing on posts in the middle of a pond.Royal class not established · Registered national ancient monumentWat Kasem Prathipวัดเกษมประทีป · Tak BaiA monastery out on the river islands at Ko Sathon, registered in 2021 for a single wooden monks house that is a textbook example of the southern house form.Royal class not established · Registered national ancient monumentWat Pipphaliwanวัดปิบผลิวัน · Tak BaiThe monastery that had to ask the Raja of Kelantan for permission to mark its ordination boundary, and whose gable still carries the year it was finished.Royal class not established · Registered national ancient monument
How this guide works

Where these facts come from

Every page is built from the National Office of Buddhism and Department of Religious Affairs registers, the Fine Arts Department’s national monument register and its published monographs, the Royal Gazette where it could be read, UNESCO, and the temples’ own material — with the Tourism Authority of Thailand used only for visiting practicalities, never for history. Nothing here is taken from a travel blog, a listicle or a review site.

The rule that governs every page is that recorded tradition is not history. Thai temple histories are full of foundation legends, and they are worth telling — but told as tradition, in those words, never flattened into a bare founding date. Where a date is not established, the page says so, and that sentence is the useful part.

Still to come here: Six, and they are all six of the monuments in this province that carry a determined land boundary, so a second run has to drop to the next status down. The province-wide register call was read whole, which makes the list for that run a list rather than a guess. Nine sites are named in Royal Gazette lists without being registered: มัสยิดวาดิลฮูเซ็น at Lubo Sawo in Bacho — the wooden mosque usually called the three-hundred-year mosque, and the single most significant monument in the province that is not a wat — มัสยิดกาจอปอรี and มัสยิดดารุลยาดีดี in Rueso, วัดเกาะสวาด, วัดฉัททันต์สนาน (วัดปลักช้าง) and วัดพระพุทธ (วัดพร่อน), all three in Tak Bai, วัดโคกเคียน in Mueang Narathiwat, วัดทุ่งคา at Yi-ngo, and เหมืองแร่โต๊ะโมะ, the Toh Mo gold mine at Sukhirin. Thirteen more are carried as monuments without a boundary, including วัดเขากง(ร้าง) — which is the ABANDONED Khao Kong monastery and is NOT the modern Phra Buddha Thaksin Ming Mongkhon image on the hill above it, a distinction that will cause an error if nobody checks it — วังเจ้าเมืองระแงะ, the Rueso cemetery and kampung sites, and แหล่งเตาเผาโบราณ on the Kolok river at Sungai Kolok. Twenty-five remain unassessed. A run that takes the mosques has to handle them the way the Khmer sanctuaries were handled elsewhere in this guide: as what they are, named correctly, and not filed as temples.

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Before you go

Read the guide to Buddhism and temple etiquette in Thailand first — dress, footwear, photography and how to behave around monks. Then the Bangkok city guide and things to do in Bangkok for everything around them.

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