สมุทรปราการ

Temples of Samut Prakan

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Samut Prakan is the province the Chao Phraya runs out through, and for most of the nineteenth century that was the whole point of it. The forts, the cut canals, the new town at Phra Pradaeng and the chedi standing in the river mouth were one programme with one purpose: to make the last twenty kilometres of the river defensible. The monasteries on this page were built inside that programme and cannot be read apart from it.

That gives the province an unusually tight chronology. Wat Phaichayon Phonsep and Wat Prot Ket Chettharam were raised at Phra Pradaeng in the Second Reign, beside the new cut and the new fort line, by two men working on the same project. Phra Samut Chedi was begun in the same reign and finished in the next. All three are Chinese-manner buildings of the sort the Third Reign made standard, and two of them have lost their ornamental roof finials in exactly the way that manner prescribes rather than by neglect.

The two modern monasteries here are not filler. Wat Bang Phli Yai Nai and Wat Asokaram are the two temples in this province that the largest number of people actually go to, and one of them is the centre of a lotus-throwing procession that the province puts on its own seal of custom. They are documented quite differently from the nineteenth-century group — one by a Ministry of Culture record with exact dates, the other by three state bodies all repeating the same undated local account — and the pages say so.

Where a record is missing, this guide says so, and on this province a good deal is missing. The Fine Arts Department's register was unreachable for the whole run, so five of the six monuments below carry no ancient-monument status at all rather than an assumed one, and three ship with no map because no source that names those monasteries publishes a coordinate.

On the map

Temples in Samut Prakan

3 of 6 temples in Samut Prakan are plotted. The others have no confirmed coordinate yet, so they are not shown as pins.

The temples

6 temples covered in Samut Prakan

Wat Phra Samut Chediวัดพระสมุทรเจดีย์ · Phra Samut ChediThe chedi standing in the mouth of the Chao Phraya that Samut Prakan puts on its own provincial arms, begun in the Second Reign and rebuilt into its present bell shape in the Fourth.Royal class not established · Registered national ancient monumentWat Phaichayon Phonsep Ratchaworawihanวัดไพชยนต์พลเสพย์ราชวรวิหาร · Phra PradaengThe second-class royal monastery beside the Pak Lat cut at Phra Pradaeng, built by the prince who later held the Front Palace, and Chinese in manner from its sandstone columns up.Second class royal temple, RatchaworawihanWat Prot Ket Chettharamวัดโปรดเกศเชษฐาราม · Phra PradaengThe Phra Pradaeng monastery whose mondop stands out over water, built by the official who oversaw the new town of Nakhon Khuean Khan in the Second Reign.Third class royal templeWat Klang Worawihanวัดกลางวรวิหาร · Mueang Samut PrakanThe royal monastery in the middle of the provincial town at Pak Nam, whose preaching hall is a group of Thai teak houses and whose mondop holds four nested Buddha footprints.Second class royal temple, WorawihanWat Bang Phli Yai Naiวัดบางพลีใหญ่ใน · Bang PhliThe monastery on Khlong Samrong that the whole province knows as Wat Luang Pho To, and the centre of the Rap Bua lotus-throwing procession each eleventh lunar month.Royal class not establishedWat Asokaramวัดอโศการาม · Mueang Samut PrakanThe forest-tradition monastery on the Bang Pu mangrove shore, and the thirteen white stupas of the Phra Thutangkha Chedi begun there in May 1962.Royal class not established
How this guide works

Where these facts come from

Every page is built from the National Office of Buddhism and Department of Religious Affairs registers, the Fine Arts Department’s national monument register and its published monographs, the Royal Gazette where it could be read, UNESCO, and the temples’ own material — with the Tourism Authority of Thailand used only for visiting practicalities, never for history. Nothing here is taken from a travel blog, a listicle or a review site.

The rule that governs every page is that recorded tradition is not history. Thai temple histories are full of foundation legends, and they are worth telling — but told as tradition, in those words, never flattened into a bare founding date. Where a date is not established, the page says so, and that sentence is the useful part.

Still to come here: Four jobs, in order, for a second Samut Prakan run. First, the Fine Arts Department register: not one of gis.finearts.go.th, the by-province QR-code pages or the department article series answered for this province, which is why five of six monuments below have `ancientMonument: null`. Wat Phaichayon Phonsep, Wat Prot Ket Chettharam and Wat Klang Worawihan are all old enough and prominent enough that a registration probably exists; it was not read, so it is not claimed. Second, coordinates for Wat Klang Worawihan, Wat Bang Phli Yai Nai and Wat Asokaram, none of which is in ONEP's cultural-environment register or the Sirindhorn Anthropology Centre database; all three ship here with no map. Third, the National Office of Buddhism roster, which would settle the royal grade of Wat Klang Worawihan (two bodies say second class and neither is the register), the sub-rank of Wat Prot Ket Chettharam, the sects of all six, and whether Wat Bang Phli Yai Nai is a royal monastery at all — the provincial tourism portal titles its page as though it were. Fourth, the province's remaining documented monuments, several already read from ONEP this run and all with coordinates in hand: Wat Nai Song Wihan at Pak Nam (13.593309, 100.604905), Wat Bang Phueng at Phra Pradaeng (13.674189, 100.522882), Wat Bang Nam Phueng Nok (13.682575, 100.586034), Pom Phlaeng Fai Fa at Talat (13.657234, 100.53268) and the Ban Bang Phriang archaeological site at Bang Bo (13.536804, 100.823008).

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Before you go

Read the guide to Buddhism and temple etiquette in Thailand first — dress, footwear, photography and how to behave around monks. Then the Bangkok city guide and things to do in Bangkok for everything around them.

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