Sukhothai · Mueang Sukhothai

Wat Saphan Hin — the stone causeway and the standing Buddha above the forest

A stone-paved causeway three hundred metres long climbing a hill in the forest-monastery zone west of the city, to a five-room vihara holding a standing Buddha 12.5 metres tall with its right hand raised.

วัดสะพานหิน · Wat Saphan Hin

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The record

What the official record says

Official nameวัดสะพานหิน — Wat Saphan Hin
WhereMueang Kao, Mueang Sukhothai, Sukhothai
Royal temple classNot established from an official register.
Monastic orderNot recorded in any register we could read.
Ancient monumentRegistered national ancient monument
Royal Gazette vol. 52, part 75, 8 March B.E. 2478
Number forty-nine on the Fine Arts Department's list of registered monuments in the park, with the same 8 March B.E. 2478 gazette citation. The department's site record also carries an unusually early restoration: in B.E. 2458 Somdet Chaofa Kromluang Phitsanulok Prachanat had a local headman named Chong build a stair to buttress the wall behind the great image. Later excavation and restoration are dated to B.E. 2498 and 2508. The Gazette itself was not read.
World HeritageHistoric Town of Sukhothai and Associated Historic Towns (574)
Coordinates17.026400, 99.675000
Fine Arts Department site record: 17°1'35" N, 99°40'30" E
Map

Where Wat Saphan Hin is

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Founding

When was it founded — and what actually establishes that?

Thai temple histories mix two different kinds of statement, and this guide keeps them apart. What a register, a gazette entry, an inscription or a dated royal act shows is one thing. What the chronicles and the temple itself hold is another, and it is worth telling as what it is.

What the record showsThe Fine Arts Department's site record dates the monument to the Sukhothai period and connects it to inscription 1 of B.E. 1835, which it quotes twice: once for the passage saying that west of Sukhothai there is a forest monastery, and that in the middle of it there is a vihara, great and tall and beautiful, with one Phra Attharot standing; and once for the passage describing the white elephant Ruchakhri, which the king rode out to pay respects at the forest monastery on the days of the full and the dark moon. The department measures what stands there now: a five-room vihara platform twenty metres by twenty-six, a standing stucco image 12.5 metres tall with the right hand raised in the attitude of dispelling fear, six small chedi bases, and the stone causeway about three hundred metres long.
What tradition holdsThe identification of this particular hill with the passages in inscription 1 is an attribution rather than a statement in the text. The inscription names a forest monastery west of the city with a tall vihara and one standing image; it does not name Wat Saphan Hin. The department says the standing image referred to is understood to be this one and that this was likely the temple the king rode to, and both those sentences are hedged in the Thai. The identification is widely accepted and this page reports it as the department's reading, not as something the stone says.

No source consulted gives a year for the building of the vihara or the making of the image. What is established is a description in an inscription of B.E. 1835 that matches this place, a restoration in B.E. 2458, and departmental work in 2498 and 2508.

History

The history of Wat Saphan Hin

The ground west of the Sukhothai walls is the aranyik, the forest-monastery zone, and the Fine Arts Department explains the term as an administrative fact rather than a poetic one: the community was divided into those who lived in the town and those who lived outside it and concentrated on meditation. The route out to them ran through the western gate, Pratu O, and it is the road the department associates with a series of named figures — the king going out to pay respects, Maha Thammaracha Lithai spending the rains at Wat Pa Mamuang after his ordination, and the Sinhalese patriarch invited to Sukhothai to teach.

Wat Saphan Hin is about 2.3 kilometres north-west of that gate, on a low hill the department gives as roughly two hundred metres. The temple is named for the way up: a path paved with stone running about three hundred metres from the foot of the hill to the terrace, which is what saphan hin means. There is a second route round the north side of the hill that the department believes was for elephants. The stone underfoot is uneven and the walk is the experience; the monument is what you find at the top of it.

On the terrace is a vihara platform of five rooms, twenty metres by twenty-six, brick with laterite pillars, facing east over the plain and the walled city. Inside it stands a stucco Buddha 12.5 metres tall with the right hand raised in the attitude of dispelling fear. The department identifies it as the kind of image inscription 1 calls Phra Attharot — the tall standing type — and quotes the inscription's description of a forest-monastery vihara, great and tall and beautiful, with one such image standing in it. Six small chedi bases are scattered over the terrace, and one of them, at the foot of the eastern stair, is a lotus-bud chedi four metres square.

The temple's modern history begins earlier than most of the park's. In B.E. 2458, two decades before the national registration and forty before the department's own excavations, Somdet Chaofa Kromluang Phitsanulok Prachanat had a headman named Chong build a stair to hold up the wall behind the great image. The department records this as the first restoration. Excavation and restoration proper followed in B.E. 2498 and again in 2508. The hill is also the reason to come late: the vihara faces east, so the image looks back down over the whole city, and the department's own service page opens the aranyik zone 08.00 to 16.30, which is shorter than the walled city and closes before the light is at its best.

On site

What you actually see

The causeway itself: about three hundred metres of stone paving climbing the east face of the hill from the road to the temple terrace, which is what gives the temple its name.

The five-room vihara platform on the terrace, twenty metres by twenty-six, brick with laterite pillars, facing east over the plain.

The standing stucco Buddha inside it, 12.5 metres tall with the right hand raised in the attitude of dispelling fear — the type inscription 1 calls Phra Attharot.

The stair behind the image, built in B.E. 2458 at the direction of Somdet Chaofa Kromluang Phitsanulok Prachanat to buttress the wall, and therefore a piece of early twentieth-century engineering holding up a fourteenth-century wall.

Six small chedi bases across the terrace, one of them a lotus-bud chedi four metres square at the foot of the eastern stair.

The second path round the north side of the hill, which the Fine Arts Department believes was the way up for elephants.

Visiting

Visiting: hours, admission, dress and photography

This is a working place of worship for millions of people rather than an attraction, and it is treated as one at the gate. Where a figure below is blank, no source we are prepared to cite states it.

HoursIn the aranyik zone west of the walls, which the Fine Arts Department's service page opens 08.00 to 16.30 daily — noticeably shorter than the walled central zone.
AdmissionThai nationals: 20 baht. Foreign visitors: 100 baht.
DressNot established from an official source.
PhotographyNo source we found states a rule, so we print none.
Getting thereAbout 2.3 kilometres north-west of Pratu O, the western city gate, then a climb of roughly three hundred metres of uneven stone paving. There is no vehicle access to the terrace.
Before you rely on the figures aboveThe department charges per zone and this is the western zone, so a central-zone ticket does not necessarily cover it. The climb is the practical constraint: the paving is old stone, uneven and steep in places, and there is no shade on the terrace. The zone closes at 16.30, which is earlier than the light on a west-facing hill would suggest.
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What we could not establish

Every temple reference repeats claims nobody has checked. These are the ones we went looking for and could not stand up, listed so you know exactly where this page stops.

FAQ

Wat Saphan Hin: common questions

Why is it called Wat Saphan Hin?

Because of the way up. Saphan hin means a stone bridge or stone causeway, and the Fine Arts Department says the temple takes its name from the path paved with stone that runs from the foot of the hill to the temple terrace, a distance the department gives as about three hundred metres. The paving is still there and still what you walk on. There is also a second route curving round the north side of the hill which the department believes was made for elephants rather than people.

What is a Phra Attharot?

It is the tall standing Buddha type named in inscription 1, and the Fine Arts Department uses the term for the 12.5-metre image here as well as for the pair that flanked the principal chedi at Wat Mahathat. The Sukhothai park guide glosses the size as around eighteen sok, an old Thai measure of the forearm. At Wat Saphan Hin the image stands with its right hand raised in the attitude of dispelling fear, facing east down the hill towards the walled city.

Did King Ramkhamhaeng really ride an elephant up here?

Inscription 1 says the king rode a white elephant called Ruchakhri out to pay respects at the forest monastery on the days of the full and the dark moon, and the Fine Arts Department quotes that passage on this monument's record. What the inscription does not do is name Wat Saphan Hin. The department's language is hedged: this was likely the temple concerned, and the standing image referred to is understood to be this one. It is a well-founded identification rather than something the stone states.

Is the climb worth it and how hard is it?

The temple is on a low hill the Fine Arts Department puts at about two hundred metres, and the way up is roughly three hundred metres of original stone paving, uneven and steep in places, with no vehicle access to the terrace. There is no shade at the top. The reward is the only view in Sukhothai that puts the whole walled city below you, seen past a standing Buddha 12.5 metres tall. The department opens this zone 08.00 to 16.30, shorter than the central zone.

Nearby

Where to go from here

Before you go, read the guide to Buddhism and temple etiquette in Thailand — dress, footwear, where photography is not welcome and how to behave around monks. The rest of Sukhothai’s temples are covered here too.

Every temple here sits in a place worth reading about on its own terms. The nationwide temple guide covers the other provinces to the same documentary standard as this page, and says on each one what the record establishes and what it does not.

If you are thinking about more than a visit: work out which Thai visa route fits your situation, and see what is available to rent and buy in residences across Thailand.

Sources & References

Sources & References

Every fact on this page is drawn from the sources above. Where they disagree, this page says so rather than choosing silently. Registrations, fees, hours and access change; confirm anything you are relying on with the authority concerned. BAANLYY LLC is a Nevada company and a listing portal, does not represent any temple, and offers no legal or religious advice.