Chiang Rai · Mueang Chiang Rai

Wat Rong Suea Ten — the Blue Temple, and the image inside the image

A blue-and-gold ordination hall in the Rong Suea Ten community north of Chiang Rai town, rebuilt by Chalermchai Kositpipat's student Phutta Kabkaew, around a white image with eighty-eight thousand smaller Buddhas inside it.

วัดร่องเสือเต้น · Wat Rong Suea Ten

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The record

What the official record says

Official nameวัดร่องเสือเต้น — Wat Rong Suea Ten
WhereRim Kok, Mueang Chiang Rai, Chiang Rai
Royal temple classNot established from an official register.
Monastic orderNot recorded in any register we could read.
Ancient monumentNot established.
Map

Where Wat Rong Suea Ten is

Rim Kok, Mueang Chiang Rai, Chiang Rai

The exact location has not been confirmed yet.

Founding

When was it founded — and what actually establishes that?

Thai temple histories mix two different kinds of statement, and this guide keeps them apart. What a register, a gazette entry, an inscription or a dated royal act shows is one thing. What the chronicles and the temple itself hold is another, and it is worth telling as what it is.

What the record showsThis is the gap in the Chiang Rai set, and it is worth stating rather than papering over. The Tourism Authority of Thailand's attraction record describes the temple in unusual physical detail — the artist, the community, the principal image and what is deposited inside it — and gives no date of any kind for the rebuilding. Neither a monument register entry, a Royal Gazette announcement nor any dated study reachable in this run supplies one. What the same record does establish is authorship: the reconstruction is the work of Phutta Kabkaew, known as Sala Nok, a Chiang Rai artist who trained under Chalermchai Kositpipat, and the temple stands in the Rong Suea Ten community in Tambon Rim Kok, Mueang Chiang Rai.

So the page carries an artist and no year. That is an honest hole and not a small one for a building this well known: the most-photographed blue interior in northern Thailand has no publicly dated construction record that this research could find at any official Thai source.

History

The history of Wat Rong Suea Ten

Wat Rong Suea Ten stands in the community it is named after, in Tambon Rim Kok on the far bank of the Kok river from Chiang Rai town. It is the third of the province's artist-made temples and the least understood of them, partly because it is genuinely a village temple that an artist rebuilt rather than an art project that acquired a congregation. The Tourism Authority of Thailand's record names the artist as Phutta Kabkaew, working under the name Sala Nok, and identifies him as a student of Chalermchai Kositpipat — the lineage from Wat Rong Khun to this building is direct and acknowledged.

The colour is what everyone comes for and it is worth being precise about what it does. The ordination hall is finished inside and out in a deep sapphire blue worked over in gold, in modelled stucco rather than paint alone, so the surface has relief in it and catches light differently at different hours. Where Wat Rong Khun uses white and mirror to throw light outward, this building absorbs it: the interior reads as a night sky with gold in it, and the white image at the far end is the one thing in the room that is not blue.

That image is called Phra Phuttha Ratchamongkhon Bodi Tri Lokkanat, which the tourism authority renders as the Buddha as auspicious ruler and refuge in the three worlds. It is six and a half metres high with a lap five metres across. What the same record says is inside it is the part most visitors never hear: eighty-eight thousand small Phra Rot Lamphun images, a class of votive tablet from the old Mon kingdom of Haripunchai that is among the oldest Buddhist objects made in northern Thailand; further objects deposited beneath the image; and, in the head, relics which the record says were bestowed by the Supreme Patriarch. A modern building, in other words, made as a reliquary in an entirely traditional sense.

The walls carry a mural cycle of the Buddha's life. Taken together with the deposit inside the image, the building makes an argument that is easy to miss behind the photographs: the vocabulary is new and startling, and the intention behind it is old and conventional. This is not a temple pretending to be an artwork. It is a working monastery whose ordination hall happens to have been rebuilt by a very good painter.

On site

What you actually see

The ordination hall itself: deep blue worked in gold over modelled stucco, inside and out, with the relief catching light rather than lying flat as paint would.

Phra Phuttha Ratchamongkhon Bodi Tri Lokkanat, the white principal image, six and a half metres high with a five-metre lap, at the end of the blue interior.

What the tourism authority records as being inside that image: eighty-eight thousand Phra Rot Lamphun votive tablets, further objects deposited beneath it, and relics in the head of the figure said to have been bestowed by the Supreme Patriarch.

The mural cycle of the Buddha's life around the walls of the hall, which is what the blue is a background to rather than a substitute for.

Visiting

Visiting: hours, admission, dress and photography

This is a working place of worship for millions of people rather than an attraction, and it is treated as one at the gate. Where a figure below is blank, no source we are prepared to cite states it.

HoursThe Tourism Authority of Thailand gives daily 07.00–20.00.
AdmissionNot established from an official source.
DressNot established from an official source.
PhotographyNo source we found states a rule, so we print none.
Getting thereThe Rong Suea Ten community, Tambon Rim Kok, Mueang Chiang Rai 57100, across the Kok river a few kilometres north of the town centre and close to Wat Huai Pla Kang. The tourism authority gives the temple's telephone number as +66 6 4347 3636 and lists parking and restrooms on site.
Before you rely on the figures aboveNo official source consulted publishes an admission charge, a dress rule or a photography rule for this temple, so none is printed. It is an active ordination hall in a village monastery rather than a gallery: shoulders and knees covered, shoes off at the door, and no photography where a sign or a monk says not.
Open

What we could not establish

Every temple reference repeats claims nobody has checked. These are the ones we went looking for and could not stand up, listed so you know exactly where this page stops.

FAQ

Wat Rong Suea Ten: common questions

Who built the Blue Temple and when?

The Tourism Authority of Thailand's record names the artist as Phutta Kabkaew, working as Sala Nok, a Chiang Rai artist who trained under Chalermchai Kositpipat of Wat Rong Khun. It gives no date. No monument register entry, gazette announcement or dated study reachable in this research supplies one either, so this guide names the artist and leaves the year open rather than repeating a figure it cannot source.

What is inside the white Buddha image?

According to the tourism authority's record, eighty-eight thousand Phra Rot Lamphun votive tablets — an old northern Thai class of small Buddha image associated with Haripunchai — together with further objects deposited beneath the figure, and relics in the head of the image said to have been bestowed by the Supreme Patriarch. It is a modern building made as a reliquary in a completely traditional way, which is the least photographed and most interesting thing about it.

How is it different from the White Temple?

Wat Rong Khun is a contemporary art project in the form of a monastery, built from scratch by Chalermchai Kositpipat from 1997 and still unfinished, on a highway site south of town. Wat Rong Suea Ten is a village monastery in Tambon Rim Kok whose ordination hall was rebuilt by one of his students. One is an artwork that functions as a temple; the other is a temple that an artist rebuilt. The distinction is worth keeping.

When is it open and what does it cost?

The Tourism Authority of Thailand gives daily opening from 07.00 to 20.00. No official source consulted publishes an admission charge, so this guide states none — which is not the same as confirming free entry, and a donation box at the door should be expected. The temple is a few kilometres north of Chiang Rai town across the Kok river, close enough to Wat Huai Pla Kang to pair the two in one trip.

Nearby

Where to go from here

Before you go, read the guide to Buddhism and temple etiquette in Thailand — dress, footwear, where photography is not welcome and how to behave around monks. The rest of Chiang Rai’s temples are covered here too.

Every temple here sits in a place worth reading about on its own terms. The nationwide temple guide covers the other provinces to the same documentary standard as this page, and says on each one what the record establishes and what it does not.

If you are thinking about more than a visit: work out which Thai visa route fits your situation, and see what is available to rent and buy in residences across Thailand.

Sources & References

Sources & References

Every fact on this page is drawn from the sources above. Where they disagree, this page says so rather than choosing silently. Registrations, fees, hours and access change; confirm anything you are relying on with the authority concerned. BAANLYY LLC is a Nevada company and a listing portal, does not represent any temple, and offers no legal or religious advice.