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Temples of Udon Thani

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Udon Thani holds pieces of two World Heritage properties and almost no registered monuments. The Fine Arts Department's national register carries 549 sites in the province, and exactly eight of them are registered: one registered outright and seven registered with a delimited land boundary. Another 197 are recorded as ancient monuments without either, 13 are marked as having insufficient evidence, and 331 — three-fifths of the whole province — are still awaiting assessment. That last figure is the state saying it has not finished looking, and here it is very large.

The registered eight are also concentrated. Two of them are the pair of footprint temples on and below the Phu Phra Bat escarpment in Amphoe Ban Phue, listed together as items 1 and 2 of the Udon Thani block in the first nationwide list of national ancient monuments in 1935 — a block with only three entries in it, the third being the Khmer enclosure at Ku Kaeo. Ninety years later, Phu Phrabat was inscribed on the World Heritage List, and the province gained a second inscribed property beside Ban Chiang, which had been on the list since 1992.

The World Heritage picture here is more particular than most accounts of it, and this guide keeps to what the documents say. The 2024 property is serial and has two component parts: the historical park, and the sīma cultural site at Wat Phra Phutthabat Bua Ban. So the temple that carries a badge on these pages is the small, little-visited one at Bua Ban, because the sema group a hundred metres above it is half the property. The temple with the forty-five-metre that at Bua Bok — the photograph everyone has seen — carries no badge, because nobody official names it as a component, and the excavation pit at Wat Pho Si Nai carries none either, because nothing read for these pages places it inside Ban Chiang's thirty inscribed hectares. Those two absences are findings, not gaps.

What the province's temples actually look like is Lao. The that over the footprint at Bua Bok is a deliberate copy of the original Phra That Phanom; the small one at Bua Ban is a redented Lan Xang square with a single east door; the brick stupa found in the scrub at Wat Si That Pramancha is Lan Xang work the department compares to Phra That Ing Hang across the Mekong; and even at Ku Kaeo, where the oldest thing on the ground is a Khmer laterite enclosure, what stands over the ruin is a Lan Xang brick stupa with a village hall beside it. Underneath that Lao layer is an older one — Dvaravati sema, seventh to eleventh century, the largest in-situ corpus of them in the world, which is what UNESCO inscribed.

And then there is the city, which is barely a century old and has one temple worth the trip. Udon Thani was founded as a provincial seat in the late fifth reign, and Wat Phothisomphon exists because the royal commissioner counted the temples in his new town, found one, and built a second beside a salt lake. It is now a third-class royal monastery and the seat of the province's Dhammayuttika sangha.

On the map

Temples in Udon Thani

6 of 6 temples in Udon Thani are plotted.

The temples

6 temples covered in Udon Thani

Wat Phra Phutthabat Bua Bok — a footprint under a copy of Phra That Phanom, and the temple the World Heritage listing does not nameวัดพระพุทธบาทบัวบก · Ban PhueA working temple on the Phu Phra Bat escarpment in Ban Phue, built around a hollow in the rock venerated as a footprint of the Buddha and covered by a Lan Xang that modelled on the original Phra That Phanom. Its registered monument area of 3,430 rai is the ground the Phu Phra Bat Historical Park stands on.Royal class not established · Registered national ancient monumentWat Phra Phutthabat Bua Ban — the sīma site that carries half of a World Heritage property, and a footprint copied over a footprintวัดพระพุทธบาทบัวบาน · Ban PhueA hill temple in Ban Phue holding a plaster footprint laid over a natural one under a small Lan Xang that, and — a hundred metres up the slope — the group of Dvaravati sema stones that UNESCO inscribed in 2024 as one of the two component parts of the Phu Phrabat World Heritage property.Royal class not established · Registered national ancient monumentWat Pho Si Nai — the burial pit left open at Ban Chiang, and Thailand's first open-air museumวัดโพธิ์ศรีใน · Nong HanAn excavation pit in the grounds of a village temple at Ban Chiang, left open under a shelter with the skeletons and pots where they were found. The Fine Arts Department calls it the first open-air museum in Thailand, and it is the fourth of the five parts of the Ban Chiang National Museum.Royal class not established · Registered national ancient monumentWat Phothisomphon — the province's Dhammayut royal monastery, built beside a salt marsh because the town had only one templeวัดโพธิสมภรณ์ · Mueang Udon ThaniThe principal Dhammayuttika monastery of Udon Thani, a third-class royal monastery on Thanon Pho Niyom beside Nong Prachak, founded in B.E. 2449 by the provincial commissioner because the new town had only one temple, and named after him by the Supreme Patriarch.Third class royal temple, Saman · Carried in the national monument register; no gazette registration recordedKu Kaeo — a laterite Khmer enclosure the department reads as a hospital chapel, with a Lan Xang stupa built on top of itกู่แก้ว · Ku KaeoA laterite Khmer enclosure with its eastern gateway still standing, inside a working temple in the district that took its name, which the Fine Arts Department supposes was the chapel of a hospital and over which a Lao-style brick stupa and a village hall have since been built.Royal class not established · Registered national ancient monumentWat Si That Pramancha — a Lan Xang stupa found in the scrub in 1915, with lotus sema whose inscription is lostวัดศรีธาตุประมัญชา · Si ThatA brick stupa in Lan Xang form and an ordination hall at Ban Nong Waeng in Amphoe Si That, registered together in 1999. Villagers clearing scrub in B.E. 2458 found the stupa on a deserted mound ringed by lotus-carved sema whose two lines of old script have since been lost.Royal class not established · Registered national ancient monument
How this guide works

Where these facts come from

Every page is built from the National Office of Buddhism and Department of Religious Affairs registers, the Fine Arts Department’s national monument register and its published monographs, the Royal Gazette where it could be read, UNESCO, and the temples’ own material — with the Tourism Authority of Thailand used only for visiting practicalities, never for history. Nothing here is taken from a travel blog, a listicle or a review site.

The rule that governs every page is that recorded tradition is not history. Thai temple histories are full of foundation legends, and they are worth telling — but told as tradition, in those words, never flattened into a bare founding date. Where a date is not established, the page says so, and that sentence is the useful part.

Still to come here: Six built, and the province's registered ground is now nearly exhausted — which is the honest shape of Udon Thani rather than a shortcoming of this run. Of the eight monuments the register carries at status 1 or 5, five are on these pages and a sixth, อาคารราชินูทิศ (0002417, registered in the same 1998 instrument as Wat Pho Si Nai at 11 rai 2 ngan 56 square wa), is a school building rather than a temple and belongs to a different kind of page. That leaves ONE registered monument unbuilt, and it was researched to publication standard in this run and held only because six is the run size: หอระฆังไม้ วัดศรีบุญเรือง (0002447), the wooden bell tower at บ้านนาแบก ตำบลเวียงคำ อำเภอกุมภวาปี, registered and bounded at ๓ งาน ๘๘ ตารางวา as item 3 of ราชกิจจานุเบกษา เล่ม ๑๑๖ ตอนพิเศษ ๑๗ ง หน้า ๑๐, ๑๗ มีนาคม ๒๕๔๒ — announced ๒ ตุลาคม ๒๕๔๑ by นิคม มูสิกะคามะ, in a three-item instrument whose other two monuments are in Khon Kaen and Nong Bua Lamphu. That scan was downloaded and read by eye in this run too. The department's record for it is unusually complete and unusually human: the temple founded in B.E. 2454 and called Wat Na Baek by the villagers, its วิสุงคามสีมา granted 15 November B.E. 2519, and the tower built between B.E. 2502 and 2504 by พระอธิการประสิทธิ์ ปสิทธิโก with the people of Ban Na Baek, to a design by a villager named พ่อใหญ่สี ประสงค์สุข, who led the work — four all-timber posts 1.15 metres round set 2.10 metres apart, four floors of plank decking joined by ladders, a four-porch roof stepping down in three tiers, and fretwork vine and kanok ornament cut from board. The department's condition note is one word: ชำรุดทรุดโทรม, decayed. A second Udon Thani run starts there. After that the province offers only status-0 and status-2 ground, of which the most substantial are วัดมัชฌิมาวาส in the city — the one temple Udon Thani already had when Wat Phothisomphon was founded, and the province's other royal monastery — พระธาตุนางเพ็ญ (วัดเกาะแก้ว) (0002580), พระธาตุจอมศรี (0002438), พระธาตุโพนทองใหญ่ (0002429), อุโบสถ (สิม) วัดโพธิ์ชัยศรี (0002543), สิมวัดทุ่งสว่างปะโค (0002441) and the ธาตุ (เจดีย์) และสิม (อุโบสถ) วัดมงคลนิมิตร (0002372). Also unbuilt and worth a decision rather than a run: วัดป่าบ้านตาด, the forest monastery of Luang Ta Maha Bua, which is by a distance the most searched temple in this province in English and appears nowhere in the Fine Arts Department's register at all. That is a source-chain problem, not a research one, and it will need an official monastic source or nothing.

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